Tired couches? Recover them this weekend with an easy DIY tutorial

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If you are looking to give your couch a refreshing new look then this tutorial is for you. The easy to follow tutorial by diydesign is ideal for first time upholsterers. This DIY is going to leave you feeling  rather chuffed with your achievements.

Cover your couch in elegant jacquards for a more sophisticated look.  Why not pick new voiles to compliment the colours and textures of your jacquard.

Tutorial: Babydoll Dress Perfect for Beginner Sewers.

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Tutorial: Babydoll Dress Perfect for Beginner Sewers

 

This Baby Doll Dress by Monica Poole is the perfect project for the beginner seamstress. 

You will need:

• Mod Girl/Baby Doll pattern available from Patterns Only

• Your choice of funky fabric

• Scissors

• Tape Measure

• Tracing paper for pattern (optional)

• Thread to match fabric

• Bias Binding

• Thin Elastic

• Sewing Machine or you can hand sew

To make:
1. Cut the pattern or trace and cut the pattern to size.

2. Add 3" to the hem

3. Fold the fabric and pin pattern on the fold.

4. Cut out the fabric.

5. Prepare the bias binding (skip this step if you have pre made bias binding).

6. Neaten fabric edges use zig-zag stitch.

7. Sew the shoulder seams then press the seams open.

8. Hem the sleeves.

9. Gather the sleeve edge with elastic.

10. Sew the side seams.

11. Double sew the underarms for stronger hold.

12. High waist drawstring casing.
13. Make up the draw string.

14. Hem the dress.

15. Bind the neck.

16. Finish by tying a bow in the front.

Gorgeous!

I truly love this tutorial! I hope you enjoy it as much as I have.

Check out our ONLINE  CATALOGUE for more on our range of fabulous fabrics. While you’re at it why not send us a FRIEND REQUEST on Facebook and FOLLOW US on Twitter. You can also FIND US on Pinterest.

How-to: Makeup Brush Carrier.

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DIY Leggings in a flash

Nice and Neat Manicure Kit

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This brilliant idea is incredibly simple. It makes a great gift and is easy on the bank.

 The Nice and Neat Manicure Kit holds all the tools one could need to keep those nails looking fine.Folding up nice and compact to be taken along with you, making this design pretty basic, it's the perfect launch pad to take the design and really make it your own.  Let's take a look!

 

 Finished Size:

(Folded) 7 1/2" x 5 1/4"

(Unfolded) 7 1/2" x 13 1/2" 

 SUPPLIES

4 gorgeous fat quarters from 

Fusible Fleece

Scissors

Coordinating Thread

1 

Magnetic Snap

Rotary Cutter

Cutting Mat

Acrylic Ruler

Water Soluble Pen 

Loop Turner

Seam Ripper 

CUTTING

Cut two 13 1/2" x 7 1/2" rectangles (1 print each)

Cut two 2" x 10" strips (1 print)

Cut one  2 1/2" x 42" bias strip (1

 print)

INSTRUCTIONS (Note: 1/4" seam allowance unless otherwise stated.)

Following the manufacturer's instructions fuse fleece to the wrong side of the 13 1/2" x 7 1/2" rectangles.   

Using a spool of thread or a similiar round object mark two rounded corners with a water soluble pen or pencil.  Trim the corners. Set aside. 

Take one 2" x 10" strip and fold in half lengthwise right sides together.  Stitch along the raw edge.  

Repeat with the remaining 2" x 10" strip.

Using a loop turner, turn the strips inside out and press. 

Pin one strip about 5 3/4" down from the top of the right side of the 13 1/2" x 7 1/2" rectangle you plan to use as the inner panel. 

This next step will depend upon which tools you plan to put in your kit.  Place the tools underneath the strip and make a mark on either side of the tools with a water soluble pen or a pencil.  Using a backstitch at the beginning and end, stitch a small line over the marks you just made.

 

Repeat the previous steps for the bulkier tools with the remaining strip.  This time pinning about 3 inches from the bottom of the inner panel, leaving a bit of ease for the tool to slip underneath the strip.  Don't forget to remove the pins!

Next, take the 'male'  magnetic snap and make a mark with the prongs about an inch from the top of the inner panel in the center.  Take your seam ripper and gently cut the two marks you just made.

 

Slip the prongs through the holes.

  

Flip the inner panel over, slip the back of the snap over the prongs and flatten them.  You can just use your fingers if you're feeling like Superman or a pair of pliers. 

 

Repeat the previous steps with the 'female' part of the snap on the bottom of the outer panel about 1 3/4" from the bottom. Snaps are done!

 

Place the two 13 1/2" x 7 1/2" panels wrong sides together.  You can hand baste these two panels together OR to make this project even quicker, just spray the wrong side of one of the panels with Heat and Bond Basting Adhesive.  Then place stick the two panels together.  I prefer this method because it's not only quick, but it will keep the panels from shifting when you fold them up.  

Finally, bind the kit with the bias tape starting at the center bottom.  This way you can make one mitered corner, THEN the curves, and finish off with the last mitered corner.  

Be sure to carefully pin the curves as you go.  

Add your tools and voila!  A happy little manicure kit!  Enjoy! 

Thank you to Fat Quarter Gang for this fabulous tutorial!


Check out our ONLINE  CATALOGUE for more on our range of fabulous fabrics. While you’re at it why not send us a FRIEND REQUEST on Facebook and FOLLOW US on Twitter. You can also FIND US on Pinterest.

DIY - Zippered box pouch

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This Zipper box pouch is super cost effective. It's a brilliant idea for someone 

needing a new pencil bag or even just a bag

to chuck make up into when on the go.

Check out our ONLINE  CATALOGUE for more on our range of fabulous fabrics. While you’re at it why not send us a FRIEND REQUEST on Facebook and FOLLOW US on Twitter. You can also FIND US on Pinterest.

SALE - 10% off curtaining fabrics

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Twirly Girl Skirt

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I am so excited to be sharing my first sewing tutorial! Because I have learned so much from following other sewing tutorials online, I really wanted to share my experiences so that I may help others as well.

My girly girls LOVE to wear skirts as full and twirly as possible. So, of course I had to google how to make pettiskirts and lo and behold, I found a great tutorial from Make it and Love it here! However, the thought of gathering and adding all those layers of chiffon was a little daunting.

Because I really liked the technique Ashley used to make the waistband to attach the two layers of skirts, I decided to use a similar technique to make a fabric pettiskirt version. Below is a tutorial of how I made the Twirly Girl Skirt. Please read all the instructions before beginning. I think I attach the gathered skirt different from conventional methods.

Fabric Measurements:

Step 1: Fold each waistband strip with right sides facing each other and sew together with a 1/4" seam allowance. Turn inside out so that the right side is facing out.

Step 2: Place one waistband inside the other one as shown in A below. Align the top edges of the waistbands and sew together with a 1/4" seam allowance as shown in B. Finish top edge with serger or zig-zag stitch.

Step 3: Turn the waistband inside out and iron the top edge. Topstitch 1/4" from the top around the waistband as shown in A. Topstitch 1" down from the 1/4" mark to form the elastic casing. Leave about an inch opening to thread the elastic into the casing at the end as show in B.

Step 4: Take two inner skirt pieces and attach the ends together with right sides facing each other. Take the third inner skirt piece and attach to one end of the piece you just attached together so that now you have one long piece of strip of skirt. Use a 1/4" seam allowance and finish edges with serger or a zig-zag stitch. REPEAT FOR THE OUTER SKIRT STRIPS.

Step 5: Gather the inner skirt strip with your favorite gathering method. I like to use my ruffler foot. MADE has a great tutorial for gathering fabric here. Gather enough to fit the width of your waistband. When gathering with a ruffler foot, it is not as easy to get the correct gathering ratio set up, so for fuller twirl, I always cut the length of the fabric to be gathered three times the length of the waistband or whatever you are attaching the gathered material to. REPEAT FOR THE OUTER SKIRT STRIPS.

Step 6: Place the gathered INNER SKIRT, wrong side up, on top of right side of the inner skirt waistband and align the top edges. Be sure to line the side seams of the skirt to the side seam of the waistband as shown in A below. You can pin the skirt to the waistband, if needed. I don't pin - I like to position the gathered skirt close to the edge as I sew without pinning. Start about an inch from the edge of where you first lay the skirt onto the waistband and sew the gathered skirt to the waistband with a 3/8" seam allowance. Stop once you get to about 2" from where you started.

Step 7: Once you get a couple of inches away from where you started sewing, lift the presser foot and remove the fabric from the sewing machine. Measure the width of waistband remaining as shown in A. Then sew the side seams of the gathered skirt closed with right sides together (B) so that it is the same width as that measured in A. Cut extra fabric to 1/4" seam. Finish edge with serger or zig-zag stitch.

Step 8: Sew the rest of the gathered skirt onto the waistband. Use a serger or zig-zag stitch to finish the raw edges.

Step 9: Turn the skirt over to the right side and topstitch close to the seam. I used a coverstitch in the photo below.

Step 10: Repeat Steps 6-9 to attach the OUTER SKIRT to the OUTER WAISTBAND.

Step 11: Prepare the small band for the bottom of the OUTER SKIRT. Attach the three band pieces together as described in Step 4. Fold the entire strip in half with wrong sides together and press with an iron.

Step 12:  Similar to how you attached the skirt to the waistband in Step 6, start about an inch from the edge of where you first lay the band onto the bottom edge of the OUTER SKIRT (see A) and sew the band to the skirt with a 3/8" seam allowance. Stop once you get to about 2" from where you started. Measure the width of waistband remaining as shown in B.  Then open up the band on both edges and sew the side seams of the band closed with right sides together (C) so that it is the same width as that measured in B.

Step 13: Sew the remainder of the band onto the skirt as shown in A. Use a serger or a zig-zag stitch to finish the raw edge as shown in B. Fold down the band and topstitch. I used a coverstitch as shown in C.

Step 14: You can sew a band on the INNER SKIRT hem as shown in Steps 11-13 or attach a gathered chiffon strip as shown below. I purchased a 2" slit chiffon roll (30 yards long) from AFC-express as shown in A. Gather the chiffon with a ruffler foot or other gathering method as shown in B. Attach the gathered chiffon to the inner skirt hem as described in Steps 6-8 and shown below in C. Finally, fold the chiffon over and topstitch. I using a coverstitch as shown in D.

Step 15: Insert the elastic into the casing with a safety pin as shown in A. Pull the elastic all the way though and secure the two ends together by sewing the pattern shown in B. Close the opening by sewing on the right side of the waistband as shown in C.

Your skirt is now complete! 

Put them on your twirly girls and let them have fun with it!!!

        

         

This Twirly Girls skirt is ideal for the scorching summer we have heading our way. A big thank you to SewLoveLe  for this magnificent tutorial.

For all your sewing supplies visit your nearest Fabric and Textile Warehouse.

Check out our ONLINE  CATALOGUE for more on our range of fabulous fabrics. While you’re at it why not send us a FRIEND REQUEST on Facebook and FOLLOW US on Twitter. You can also FIND US on Pinterest.

DIY Recycled pencil case

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Recycling is always important to all of us here at Fabric and Textile Warehouse which makes this tutorial another one of our many favorites.

The materials are very easy to find and are most likely lying around the house.

All you need is:

2 toilet roll inners

Felt (Square 20cm)

Zipper (approximately 20cm)

Scissors

Thread and needle

Cardboard

Yet another beautiful tutorial by The Craft Junkie, click here for the full tutorial.

Check out our ONLINE  CATALOGUE for more on our range of fabulous fabrics. While you’re at it why not send us a FRIEND REQUEST on Facebook and FOLLOW US on Twitter. You can also FIND US on Pinterest.

  

Melly & me tutorial: Sewing softies tip

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Today we welcome back Melanie Hurlston of Melly & me with a tutorial to help you with your softie sewing.

Take it away, Melanie...

This tutorial is really an aid to sewing Pippi, Phoebe, Dilbert and Bubbles softies(found in the bookKaleidoscope by Melanie).

I have had a number of people say that they either do not understand or have had difficulty transitioning from sewing around the body to sewing the inner legs. Hopefully this will make it a little clearer and will help those who have tackled or are yet to tackle these patterns.

For this tutorial I am making some basic mini Phoebes, but the principles are the same for any of the mentioned patterns - you would be likely to have something looking a little different than my tutorial pieces - with hoof fabric/toes etc.

Step 1. First you will have your main body pieces and inner leg pieces which have been prepared as per your pattern.

Step 2. Following the instructions in your pattern, place one inner leg piece on top of one main body piece, right sides together. You tack/pin these together and then sew all the way around the edges of the inner leg from toy back to toy front. One note that should be on all of the four mentioned patterns is that you need to curve the seams at the beginning and end of your inner legs to the edge of the fabric. This is an essential step in the process.

Step 3. Repeat this with your remaining pieces and you will now have two of the following.

Step 4. Place your two toy sides on top of each other, right sides together and then pin all around the body, starting from one edge of the inner leg to the other.

Step 5. Fold the legs up against the body to reveal the top edge of the inner legs. You will see how the top straight edges of the inner legs are now right sides together and become a circle with the rest of the body.

Step 6. Tack/pin the top edge of the inner legs together.

Step 7. Now sew around your toy with a small stitch on your sewing machine, starting at the turning gap, until you reach the inner leg seam. If you have curved your seams accurately on the legs (at step 2), you should be able to sew over the leg seam now and continue around the inner legs of your toy and back up to the other side of your turning gap. Some people seem to be having troubles at this point, or end up with puckers, so the next few steps will show you an alternate method to ensure your seams are perfect.

Sew around the toy, starting at the turning gap, until you reach the inner leg section. Sew stitches all the way up to the outer leg seam and then secure your stitches with backwards/forward stitching.

Step 8. Now fold the legs up against the body and start sewing the top edges of the inner legs together, starting right at the outer leg seam and securing stitches.

Step 8. Sew all of the inner legs together, ending and securing your stitches when youagain reach the next outer leg seam. Fold the legs down again and then start sewing the remainder of your body, up to the turning gap, starting right at the seam once again.

Step 9. You should now have a fully sewn toy looking something like this.

Step 10. Snip corners and curves and then turn your toy right side out through your turning gap. Your inner leg seams should now look nice, neat and pucker free like this!

I hope you all have perfect inner legs now - hee-hee, sounds like we have just completed an aerobics class!

Click here to take a look at more of  The OZ Material Girls simple yet stunning tutorials.

Check out our ONLINE CATALOGUE for more onour range of fabulous fabrics. While you’re at it why not send us a FRIEND REQUEST on Facebook and FOLLOW US on Twitter. You can also FIND US on Pinterest.